Stay
We
have mentioned stays a number of times to help with other exercises
eg you need a reliable stay
before a recall, but a Stay on it’s own is a valuable exercise to have.
It’s great to have a dog that you can safely drop the lead and leave
them on a stay. I have put my dog in
a stay and left him there at training to catch a loose dog, at the dog wash when
another dog tried to jump out of the tub and at crowded fairs while we are doing
obedience demonstrations.
Just
to make something clear, Stay is both a command and an exercise, but it has the
same basis. To get your dog to stay
on the spot and not move (and it could be in the sit, stand or down position)
– whether it’s for 7 minutes in an obedience stay exercise or for 30 seconds
for an examination – is taught the same way.
And this is another exercise that is taught S L O W L Y because rushing
things will be counter productive and will only teach your dog not to stay.
Let
me mention again, I make a difference between commands “Wait” and
“Stay”. To me, “Stay” means Stay! The dog doesn’t move until I come
back to release him. “Wait” means the dog has another command it has to
carry out before the exercise is finished. I was taught this right from the
beginning - not all instructors make the difference between “Stay” and
“Wait” – but I have found that it makes stays more stable because the dog
learns that when they get “Stay” then they don’t have to anticipate
getting another command – they learn that “Stay” is the only command.
“Stay” is used for the Stay exercise (obviously) and stand for examination.
“Wait” is used for recalls, retrieving, distance exercises etc where you
have to take up a position and then instruct the dog further. “Wait” is also
handy if your dog is too impatient for their food or to get through a gate –
“Wait” can get them to temporarily stay put until you are ready for them to
move forward.
Stand
stay is the one I teach last – with the dog on its feet it is easier for it to
move and wiggle. Teach the sit
or down first because a part of the dog is already ‘planted’.
Note some dogs don’t like being put in the down position because it is
submissive. If you are
struggling with the down, then don’t attempt the down stay until the down
issues have been resolved.
I use different hand signals depending on my position to the dog. (And again the signals and commands I use aren’t “the” signals, many people use different ones. The best ones are what works for your dog.) If I am beside him, then I use a straight hand down in front of the face (see below left). If I am in front or at a distance then I use the palm up “Stop” type signal (see below right).
I find this exercise also benefits from a release word. We mentioned it in the “Leave” post. Don’t use praise as meaning they can jump up and do what they want. You may want to praise a dog in the middle of an exercise without releasing them. Start using “Free” or “Okay” so they know they have to hold position until they get the release word.
Teach
this exercise on lead because if they do break then they won’t be able to run
away. As you gradually build
up the time and distance, stay on lead – get or make yourself a really long
lead so you maintain control. (You
can use the long lead for your recalls as well).
We had a dog at training who kept running away.
The owner let her do it a number of times and what she learned was that
as soon as the owner walked away, she could get up and run off.
The owner put her on the long lead once and she was good so he let her
off again and she ran away. If
this happens once, don’t let them keep breaking, go
right back to basics again – stay close or on lead for MONTHS until they have
been reprogrammed from the running away behaviour.
Don’t, don’t, don’t be tempted to go too fast.
You will only get a reliable stay if you take this exercise very slow and
precise.
Start
by standing beside your dog and give the command “Stay” and use the hand
signal. Don’t move away from
beside them, just repeat Stay and Sit (or whatever position they are in).
You may want to lay your hand gently on the top of their head or on their
left shoulder just to keep them settled and in position.
Watch your tone of voice – you don’t want to sound threatening but
you also don’t want to sound playful.
Start short and build up slowly – start with 10 seconds for a number of
times and then 15 etc etc before you release them.
Practice this way for awhile until the dog doesn’t move for a good
minute or so.
Watch
your dog’s body language carefully.
If they start to twitch or look like they are going to break the stay,
then give another command and signal to settle them back down or release them
immediately before they break.
“Before” is important because if they break then that is what you
have taught them – to break and not to stay.